high exposure factor | monte albano via ferrata

3 mi . 1200 ft gain . 1800 ft high

I decided that this route would be the first trip report I write from my most recent Dolomites trip. I could hardly call this the Dolomites though because it’s situated by Arco, Italy in the foothills of the Alps. But it was by far the most thrilling experience during this week-long trip. Let’s hit it!

The details

After being skunked for the first via ferrata of this trip, we wanted a big banger with a wow factor. To me the biggest wow factor is exposure. High exposure, but relatively low effort seemed like a good deal. Mostly because I have limited experience in via ferratas and they seem to get quite difficult, like you need climbing skills for the most difficult, which sounds like you could get yourself into a tricky situation. So we settled for the Monte Albano Via Ferrata .

According to the Ferrate 365 website, they rate this via ferrata with technical and environmental difficulties of 2/5 each, physical commitment of 3/5 and an exposure rating of 5/5. Perfect!

This starts in the town of Mori, a 20 minute drive from Arco. It’ll take an average person about 3 hours to complete, but I believe we hustled half way through and finished in about 2.5 hours. Other sites claim 4 hours of completion. This includes approach and descent.

This via ferrata is relatively short, as in it doesn’t take a full day, but does gain 500 ft in elevation throughout the route. After the first pitch or stage, there’s a sign that tells you to take the walk-off descent if you struggled through the first bit as a good warning.

The photo diary of the route

There’s plenty of route descriptions out there, my favorite being ferrate365.it. However, many lack good photos of what is like to complete the route, making it difficult to figure out whether or not it’s for you, especially if you’re new to via ferrata.

Parking is always tricky in a new place, but we took the suggestion from Ferrate365 and it worked well. On the corner of Via Gerole and Via G. Marconi in the Parcheggio (parking) for Piazza B. Malfatti. Then find your way up to Vitolo Zocchel and there’ll be signs for the via ferrata as well as the church Santuario di Monte Albano. I saw someone drive up to the church, but I don’t think it is recommended. Plus you get to walk through some cool gardens and vineyards. In late fall, persimmon and olives were a common harvest.

Once you reach the church, you’ll find some signs and maps about the bouldering area and the via ferrata. I was amazed by how well labeled everything was. You won’t get lost! Bypass the boulders and follow the trail up to the start. There’ll be a metal plaque again and a sign warning that this is difficult. Definitely start with a chiller via ferrata before you embark on this one. It’s high exposure and not for the faint of heart. It starts off hard and keeps going that way.

The first move is likely the hardest of them all since it is a scramble up 5 feet before you can really start. There are hooks you can clip on to as a self belay. I highly recommend it, plus maybe someone to spot you if you’re short. The rock is extra polished from everyone completing this route. I believe the rock is limestone.

Once you get past the first boulder, you’re in the trees a bit before a set of ladders to end the first short pitch. This is where you can bail if you didn’t like it. I almost quit! But I pressed forth. It does get strenuous but there are moments where you can take a break.

The next pitch is another straight up ladder. Definitely make sure you only unclip and re-clip one carabiner at a time. I like the one hand rule to touch the carabiners so you don’t accidentally undo both at the same time.

After this ladder is the first set of exposed traverse. This route likes to make it as exposed as possible! Step on out and round the corner for your first break after the traverse. Take the breaks because it’s about to get steep again. This is one of the longest sets of ladders. It mellows out a bit.

From here, we have a tree-d traverse into a more open traverse with another set of ladders before a trivial walk along a trail. Take care though! Then we have a short climb to another traverse. We started getting caught up with the other group and started to really hustle.

One last traverse on iron rungs and you’ve reached the log where you can sign your name like on a summit register! Makes sense this is just before the last ladder set instead of the top. Because it really shows you’ve done it instead of just walking to the top.

Now this last stretch is quite long. You think you’re done with the ladders, but it keeps going for several different stretches. But yes, it’s the last segment! A nice top out (finish) to the descent trail. Plenty of space to sort out your gear before you walk back down. The trail naturally takes you back to the start of the ferrata and back to the church where you can retrace your steps to your car.

Notes

• My go-to via ferrata website, especially for Italy is ferrate365.it which you can filter on difficulty and other factors and location.
• The Monte Albano via ferrata has a moderate-difficult rating of C/D
• Parking: By Via Gerole and Via G. Marconi in Piazza B. Malfatti
• This is a high exposure route where your feet are dangling on a cliff hundreds of feet above ground. Be careful in completing this and turn around after the first segment if you felt uncomfortable. There’s no other turn around point.
• There’s few places to rent gear, so consider buying your own via ferrata set if you are planning to do multiple days. Otherwise, MMove in Arco has gear rentals for 16€ including helmet, harness, and via ferrata lanyard. Sometimes it is helpful to search “noleggio” the Italian word for rental
• Looking for more Dolomite activities? Check out my blog on Tre Cime and my Ultimate Guide to Cortina!

Photos shot on Canon 5D EOS R5