luxury day hiking | how to visit geisleralm and val di funes

5.5 miles . 1450 ft gain . 6700 ft high

Parco Naturale Puez-Odle

In Europe, hiking feels like a luxury experience compared to in the US. With plentiful huts and delicious mountain food, I’m sure I would have started hiking at a much earlier age!

About Geisleralm

It’s lesser known that the views from Geisleralm are the backside of Seceda. Geisleralm is situated high up the valley of Val di Funes. It’s a little valley with several small towns as you drive through and sort of deadends here. Santa Magdalena is most famous for its cute hillside houses among the green pastures. The most photographed spot is likely of the little church, Chiesetta di San Giovanni.

Geisleralm itself is a sizeable restaurant with indoor and outdoor seating where you can have the most incredible views with lunch. While it’s often referred to as a rifugio, it actually doesn’t have accommodations and is only a day-use location.

Getting to Geisleralm

The easiest way to get to Val di Funes is by car. If you want to have one single base for day hiking, you’ll probably stay in Val Gardena for easy access to a lot of different hiking trails. Val di Funes is much smaller and secluded, so while it’s possible to travel by bus, it would take a long time. Plus, you’d have extra hiking to get to Geisleralm. To drive from Val Gardena to Val di Funes, it’s still about an hour, but you don’t have to take the toll speedway.

There is a 10€ fee to park at the Parcheggio Malga Zannes and they take cash. In theory you can also reserve online, but it is unclear currently how that works. This is why I highly recommend going in shoulder seasons to make sure you get a parking spot!

How to Hike to Geisleralm

There’s 2 main trails to choose from and we decided to hike it in a loop for the most varied experience. The day I went, it seemed like most people decided to hike the longer route instead of the shorter route, which is not super obvious when you’re there. Park at the most west side of the parking lot and you’ll begin on the correct trail for the shortest time. Times are also posted on the trail markers for a brisk average pace. Honestly I think the average American hiker probably hikes slower than the posted time. It is fast for a fit hiker (and I’m saying that as someone who is a fast hiker).

Start on Trail 34, part of the famous Adolf-Munkel Trail. You’ll pass by Malga Dusler, a perfect short pit stop if you need a snack, but you’re more than half way to Geisleralm if you can wait.

After you’ve had a proper break at Geisleralm, to continue the loop, keep going uphill a bit towards the Seceda mountains and to Malga Casnago. Then take the trails leading eastward traversing under the base of the giant peaks (Trail 35). Then turn downhill back towards the parking (Trail 36B). You’ll also pass by Glatschalm, a hut that allows overnight stays.

Other things to do in Val di Funes

You’re probably also wondering about the iconic church. This is an easy photo op. If you’re headed to Geisleralm, either before or after your hike, you might as well check this out, though parking is severely limited. Park here at the corner by Geisler Str, St Johann, and Zanser Str. Then walk 1 minute to the photo spot. It’s fenced off, so no running around the church meadows.

For views of the town, Santa Magdalena, drive up here. But also, I just highly recommend exploring the streets on your own and getting lost in the town for a bit. That’s what traveling is about!

Last Notes

• For more Dolomites activities, check out my Guide on Cortina d’Ampezzo
• Val Gardena hiking map can be found here

Photos taken on Canon R5 and iPhone 13mini